Howlite in Jewellery
Howlite is one of the most colour-versatile minerals in artisan jewellery. In its natural form it's a white stone laced with a network of grey veining, but thanks to its high porosity it takes dyes readily. This property is where its strength lies: the same mineral can appear across artisan pieces as pastel blue, deep black, delicate green or sandy olive - giving designers an unusually broad palette to work with, while keeping one shared material foundation.
What Howlite Really Is
Howlite is a calcium borosilicate (Ca₂B₅SiO₉(OH)₅) - a mineral known to science since 1868. It was discovered in Canadian Nova Scotia by the British chemist Henry How, a lecturer at King's College in Windsor, who found unusual white crystals in local gypsum deposits and described them as a new mineralogical species. The name 'howlite' was given in his honour.
In its natural form it has a white or cream colour with a distinctive network of thin, grey-to-black veins - the result of small impurities inside the stone. This 'spider-web' structure is sometimes mistaken for the veining of turquoise, which is why white howlite is colloquially sold as 'white turquoise'. Mineralogically these are entirely different stones: howlite and turquoise have different chemical structures and come from different geological processes.
Howlite's hardness on the Mohs scale is just 3.5 - considerably less than turquoise (5-6) or onyx (6.5-7). The stone is soft and easy to carve into figurative shapes, but it also demands more care in wear.
Four Colours of One Mineral
The property that matters most in jewellery-making is howlite's high porosity. The stone takes dyes very readily, allowing artisans to achieve almost any colour they want. Dyeing is usually done by immersing the howlite in a pigment solution, often with heat, so the dye penetrates deeper. The effect is durable, though sensitive to strong solvents and prolonged sun exposure.
In the 'A Slice of Heaven' earrings, howlite has taken on its most classic dyed colour: pastel blue imitating turquoise. Small discs 4 mm in diameter sit next to silver-plated hematite rondelles and repoussé silver rings. The earwires are sterling silver 925 studs. Total earring length is about 3.5 cm.
The 'La Muerte' earrings take a completely different direction. Here howlite has been dyed a deep black and then carved into skull shapes - a reference to the Mexican Día de los Muertos. Carving soft howlite is much easier than carving the harder onyx, which allows for precise detail. The composition is completed by small turquoise discs and irregular garnet rondelles, all set in polished sterling silver 925. Stone size: from 12 mm to 4 mm; earring length: about 5 cm.
In the 'From the Studio Windows' necklace, howlite appears as a large elongated drop (4 cm long, 1.5 cm in diameter) in a pastel blue shade. It hangs beneath a circular brass pendant with a hand-painted floral enamel motif, mounted on a strand of raw, hand-dyed Indian silk in tones of washed denim shifting into beige with hints of pale violet. Necklace length: 65 cm.
Finally, the 'Green Apple' necklace presents howlite in olive green with lime accents. A howlite cylinder measuring 17 × 23 mm hangs from a patinated brass pendant with a hand-engraved shrub motif and enamel decorations (maroon flowers, purple berries, green leaves). The pendant is completed by a cultured pearl in maroon. The natural pits and dark veins in the howlite make clear it's a genuine stone – even when its colour comes from dyeing.
Four designs, four colours. One mineral in each of them.
How to Wear Dyed Howlite
Dyed howlite has one practical strength: available in almost any colour, it fits into as many outfits as you let it. Pastel blue ('A Slice of Heaven') works in everyday looks with jeans, a white shirt or an ecru jumper. The deep black with carved skulls ('La Muerte') takes styling courage - it won't work in a classic, elegant outfit, but it beautifully brings looser bohemian or rock-styled ensembles to life: with jeans, a leather jacket, a longer black coat. The pastel blue of 'From the Studio Windows' harmonises with cottons, linens and delicate floral patterns. The olive green of 'Green Apple' looks best in a warm autumnal palette - with browns, ochre, deep burgundy.
Three Facts Worth Knowing
Howlite was discovered and described in 1868 by the British chemist Henry How, a lecturer at King's College in Windsor in Canadian Nova Scotia. How examined an unusual white mineral found in local gypsum deposits and described it as a newly identified species. The name 'howlite' was given in his honour - as with many minerals that bear the names of their discoverers.
The high porosity that makes howlite an excellent material for taking dyes is at the same time its practical weakness. The stone easily absorbs liquids and chemicals from its surroundings - which is why howlite jewellery, especially dyed pieces, is best taken off before applying perfume or cosmetics, and before working with detergents. Water alone won't harm it, but strong dyes can fade under prolonged exposure to sunlight.
In the tradition of lithotherapy, howlite is credited with calming and sleep-supporting properties - which is why some sources call it the 'stone of calm'. It's worth noting that these are lithotherapy beliefs, not scientific facts. Regardless, the white, matte look of natural howlite remains a popular choice in mala bracelets and natural meditation jewellery, where its muted, earthy aesthetic is valued.
One Stone That Takes on Every Colour
Howlite in artisan jewellery is a lesson in how far colouring can develop the potential of a single material. Under an artisan's hand, a natural white rock laced with veining becomes four different stones - blue, black, pastel, olive – each with its own character, but always resting on the same foundation.
